My
Story
Monday July 25, 2011
Like most of us children of the sixties, I grew up
with an eclectic idea of good nutrition. My grandmothers were both good solid
southern cooks, right up to their deaths in their nineties. Both saved bacon
fat in Folger’s cans, although Granny was a Virginian
and Grandmother a native Oklahoman. Apparently some things are universal.
Mother was born in Oklahoma also, and Pop spent his life through graduate school
in Blacksburg, Virginia, a hot bed of ham and other good things.
The end of WWII left a number of US food companies with huge factories
producing highly processed, shelf-stable foods for the troops.* which was the
beginning of convenience foods like TV dinners and baking mixes.** Television
and the availability of advertising into living rooms was a lucky coincidence,
all converging in the avalanche that created ‘Fast Food.’
Of course, the purpose of this revolution was convenience, not the collective
malnutrition of the country, and it was decades before the damage began to
appear. And the enemy is the refined carbohydrates and hydrogenated fats. While
shelf stability seems to be a desirable quality, another way of expressing it
is: so lacking in nutritional value that even bacteria and mold won’t touch it.
That sets the scene- a good background in country cooking, and a sudden turn
towards convenience. Who doesn’t remember Swanson’s Fried Chicken: mashed
potatoes, corn and fried chicken and a piece of something vaguely apple-ish. My
mother was an early convert, and Salisbury Steak was
suddenly a common dish, albeit a frozen one. Mother simply didn’t enjoy
cooking, and once I was tall enough to reach the stove, I began to learn,
mostly in self-defense. Baking, as an addendum to meals gradually morphed to me
doing much of the cooking. I loved it!
My first year in college, I bought Julia Child’s ‘Mastering the Art of French
Cooking’ and thus began a lifelong habit of reading cookbooks like novels.
While the dorm kitchen and the efficiency apartment kitchens were not up to her
requirements, her exhaustive passion for her subject still enthralls me. I
spent a couple of summers cooking for archeology camps in northern Arizona, then moved to Hood River, Oregon, to begin my career as a
psychologist.
That went about as well as anyone could expect from a 23 year old trying to
tell Viet Nam veterans to cheer up. It did give me enough income to open a
vegetarian restaurant in the back of a health food store, and thus began 5
years of dining meat free and a 30-pound weight gain. A stint cooking for
logging camps in Idaho, Montana and Alaska after selling the restaurant give me
some of my happiest and most challenging culinary times.
Fast forward five years, and I am newly single, living in Austin Texas with a
baby, with most of my household investment in cookbooks. A few years later, I
am remarried, still cooking, occasionally professionally, and writing about
food. Finally, five years as a ‘Foodie’ for Central Market, and an accident led
me to early retirement. While there, I was in Foodie Heaven, as my job
description was effectively: ‘Food Geek.’ Be prepared to answer any question a
customer might have about food. My perfect job!
This whole time, I am reading, cooking, getting certified as a nutritionist,
and fighting my weight. The accident put me in bed and a wheelchair for most of
two years, and let me tell you; there is no more efficient way to gain weight
than bed rest. Not only did I lose muscle (25 years with the YMCA disappeared
quickly!) and add fat, but food, and eating and reading about food became my
life, and by the time I could move again, I had gained somewhere north of 50
pounds.
Of course, the first order of business was to get the lard off. I had certified
in 1998 as a nutritionist, knew the food pyramid, and had been a gym rat long
enough to know what to do. Thirty pounds came off pretty readily. Then I
plateaued. For two years. Kismet and pure luck led me to a nutritionist whose
first words were: ‘Calories in and calories out doesn’t apply any more, does
it?”
Eight surgeries in three years had taken a toll, exhausting my endocrine
system, including my adrenals, the last to go. My MD offered a reprint of the
USDA Food Pyramid, and suggested that I might not be clear on the methods for
keeping a food diary. My nutritionist (and acupuncturist, mentor and dear
friend) on the other hand, gave me this: ‘get your carbohydrates below 60 grams
a day, most of it from vegetables.’ Not only did the weight begin to come off
again, but also my palette became much more sensitive, my head clearer and my
general health much better.
Here’s the deal. Back when I started writing this - the post war fifties and
sixties, people simply had very little access to refined foods. A normal diet
might provide between 50 and 100 grams of carbohydrates, and few of them
refined. But as the huge food corporations grew, the availability skyrocketed,
to the point that a child in 1950 consumed, on average, less than 10 pounds of
sugar in a year, and in 2009, averaged over 200 pounds. High fructose corn
syrup makes such an astounding number very accessible.***
My diet, because of my love of cooking, was better than most. Still, I was
always fighting to lose the same 30 pounds. This new concept of nutrition
engaged me completely, and I entered a yearlong training course to become a
Nutritional Therapist. Graduating in June, I can say that this has been the
most gratifying and fascinating year I can recall.
Corporations have taken over most of our food production. They are not
inherently evil, but are at best amoral. It is the small farmers who are
raising fruits and vegetables and sustainable livestock that are our hope for
the future. The grains and soybean producers are the ones providing little
nourishment, a lot of hype and a brutal environmental impact. What I hope to do
on this site is to create a trustworthy and knowledgeable resource for people
who want to take control of their health.
There are two ways to deal with our health- we can hope for the best, not try
to sort through the tons of contradictory information to see what works for our
own individual best health, and when something goes wrong, find a doctor to
give us a pill that will address the symptom, but not force us to change our
lives very much. Alternatively, we can make our lives a quest,
exploring everything we can to achieve optimum health. One way is a slow
decline with a big finish. The other can be delightful challenge to continually
get better.
*This will be a recurrent theme here: either the corporations could lose some
money or the population could be conned into supporting their investment. As Michael Pollan says: ‘Don’t eat
anything you have seen advertised.’ I love a good conspiracy theory!
** Interestingly, the first cake mixes, like the military field rations, were
very self contained,
requiring only water. Home cooks weren’t interested, so Duncan Hines began a
line of mixes that required eggs and oil. This was enough to convince consumers
that the product was nourishing.
*** High fructose corn syrup IS more refined than plain table sugar, but in the
blood stream, either one is equally damaging, triggering insulin, and
metabolizing so quickly that there is no place to put it but on our bellies
Austin Nutritional Therapy by Elaine DiRico